How I Use Photoshop Brushes

Photoshop has been around for more than a hot second and with it are a huge range of default brushes and add-ons. For anyone just starting to paint or draw in photoshop, the Basic Round Brush is the best to start with. Once you have a good handle on the round brush and understand how to adjust different brush settings, get experimenting. Figure out what traditional medium you gravitate toward (watercolor, oils, colored pencil), and that will inform your decisions on what brushes to use.

Less is more for your brush arsenal. There are brushes that can "stamp" finished shapes like flowers and eyes that you should avoid. Painting everything with the same one or two brushes will look more cohesive. Of the brushes I will talk about, the "Gouache Detail" brush in figure 1 is my main brush for roughly 70% of the time.

All of my brushes are found in Kyle Webster's brush packs with some minor setting changes. For all of them, I made a copy of the brush as a "New Brush Preset" by clicking the gear icon. When you do that, you need to uncheck "Capture Brush Size in Preset" and "Include Tool Settings". This way, you can use the same brush shape as an eraser, mixer brush, smudge tool, etc. You may have to turn on the brush pressure on manually when you do this.

Brush Functions

My brushes can be broken down into 3 functions, which are annotated in the above chipmunk with a, b, and c. These functions are:

  • soft, gradual shading (a), encompassed above by a soft circle

  • hard-edge "planar" shading (b), indicated with planar lines, like a 3D mesh

  • streaky, contour shading (c), represented above with arrows

My favorite brush, which is demonstrated in figure 1 below, covers all of the functions, but I still use a few selected brushes that specialize in 1 function:

The following corresponds with the figure number and functions from above:

  1. Gouche Pastel- (a,b,c)

    • This is my favorite and most versatile brush for me. The brush is rectangular with a thick and a thin side of the virtual tip to let you shade large areas as well as draw details. There is also a defined edge to a rectangular brush that makes "planar" shading easier. Think of facets on a crystal. By defining planes on faces, fabric, and other objects, it helps create a sense of dimension.

    • For both the brushes in figures 1 and 2, the brush shades differently when you hold continuously vs picking up the Wacom pen and making repeated strokes. In the top left corner of figure 1 is a continuous stroke with increasing pen pressure that is smooth in texture. The top right of figure 1 shows separate strokes that build up a more grainy texture. I build up my shading with the grainy texture method. 

    • I can't remember where this brush came from, but it might be from an earlier Megapack by Kyle Webster. It resembles oil pastel as well as some of the gouache brushes in current packs. I have it available for a free download below. Make sure that Shape Dynamics>Angle Jitter>Pen Tilt is on and that Size Jitter is off.

  2. "Gouache Blair"- Gouache Pack (a)

    • This brush is a recent favorite that pairs well with the Gouache Pastel brush. The taper is much sharper, making this brush great for things like hair, fur, and rim light. It also works incredible well for foliage, capturing thin stems and tapering leaf shapes more fluidly than my Gouache Pastel brush. 

  3. "Shady Graphite 2"- Megapack (a)

    • This brush is used briefly in my overall process, but it's still great. I incorporated this brush as a substitute for the default soft round brush. The smoothness of the default round brush takes away some of the texture I want, so the subtle texture of Shady Graphite is preferable. I use it when I need large areas with a gradual change in value.

  4. "Gouache Round Bristle"- Gouache Pack (c)

    • This is a lovely fluid brush similar to a dry brush with a round tip. This is great for hair, similar to Gouache Blair, but is better for larger clumps of hair or hair in action that is more impressionistic. I have also found it to be a great brush for fire and in some cases, fabric. "Gouache Bristle Super Dry" is from the same pack and I use it for the same applications.

Figure 5 an example of the Gouache Pastel Brush in use. I am using a shape layer for the ball to make it easier to paint inside the silhouette. I isolate shapes when I make complex compositions to help streamline my process. The drawback is that edges are too sharp and synthetic by default. I bring in a different set of Smudge brushes to create edge variation.

Figure 9 demonstrates 2 brushes used for similar hairy purposes. The left side is thick fur made with the Gouache Round Bristle brush. The right side is more volumetric hair painted with Gouache Blair. I will often combine these together for a more natural look as using Gouache Blair by itself is a little more stylized than my goal for semi-realism.

Figure 10 demonstrates how I might use the Gouache Blair Brush for foliage in addition to hair shown in Figure 9. Flowers and other plants have leaves and petals that can be simplified into 2-3 planes. They are made of simple shapes, but assembled together it can be quite detailed and overwhelming. Painting them in a planar method makes it possible to paint a field of flowers realistically without your hand falling off.

Mixer Brushes

Mixer Brushes are popular for digital painters and can be used in the same way as Smudge Brushes for solid pixels. The brush dynamics are different from Smudge Brushes and may take some fiddling with. I find the best use for Mixer brushes to be smooth, oily, and painterly styles. I don't use Mixer Brushes as much because the Smudge Brushes tackle both pixels on transparent areas as well as solid pixels. I also have been moving away from using the mixer brush for technique reasons since I want to keep my grainy under-layer visible as much as possible.

Figure 7 is example of using a Mixer Brush on an edge. Mixer Brushes need pixels to mix, so it will not work in the same way on pixels that border transparency. Instead, it pushes the pixels around and has a sharp edge. You can use the "Sample All Layers" feature to remedy this, but it will change the edge control of your shape if you are working with multiple layers and introduces lag on big canvases.

Smudge Tool

The Smudge tool is a misleading name for what functions more like a brush when using custom settings. The best way for me to describe it is that I use Mixer Brush more for "dragging" paint and Smudge Tool for "scrambling" in a controlled manner.

Figure 6 has the same shading as figure 5 but with edge variation and a brighter highlight. I am using the Smudge Tool with "Grit Smudge" Smudge Brush from Kyle's Drawing Box in the Megapack as well as the Dry Media pack. The "Basic Smudge" from the Dry Media Pack is also great for a more intense blurred edge. Grit Smudge does a good job of softening edges without completely losing the silhouette.

Figure 8 shows another Smudge Brush that I use, which is the Scraper found in the Dry Media pack. This example shows how it can be used for fine fur or hair, but it can also be used in fewer strokes to create edges with action lines.

The above example shows 2 different Smudge Brushes in action. Brackets with "1" indicate where I have used the "Grit Smudge" Smudge Brush to soften receding edges. Bracket "2" shows where I used the "Scraper" Smudge Brush to soften furry areas, which also have a few strokes of defined hairs on top made with the Gouache Blair Brush. 

If you made it this far, congratulations! Reward yourself by gazing upon this Merfrog I have recently painted to celebrate the end of MerMay.

In other recent news, I have joined a new social media and portfolio platform called Cara, which is making the news headlines as one of the fasted growing Apps. Meta recently implemented new predatory AI-training policies (on top of shady data policies to begin with), prompting an exodus of artists to Cara. Cara is for human-made art only and is like a breath of fresh air knowing everything on your newsfeed is "real" and not plagiarized AI imagery. Cara is worth checking out and shows how much people value the protection of their creative works. 

Procreate Vs. Photoshop Part 2

Last month I shared about some adventures in Procreate from the perspective of a Photoshop user. I have a few more insights to add and some conclusions that surprised me!

Reference photo from photographer Engin Akyurt. Brush comparison in Procreate. Re-shading the same sketch with different brushes is a great way to see their qualities!

My original goal was to recreate the feel of Photoshop in Procreate, but I also found that I liked Procreate for different uses. With the above study, I tested out two brushes that I liked after a lengthy narrowing-down process. The left example was made with a gouache style brush with the hopes of finding something like the Kyle gouache brushes for Photoshop. The right example was made with a brush from the Jingsketch Basics pack that I had used and was a little intimidated by at first, but had noticed potential. I stuck with it and enjoyed using it so much that I decided to pursue this smooth, art deco flavor with an additional study!

The Edge Control brush is one that could only work well in Procreate. The brush dynamics that make it so fluid and have a controlled, but organic taper from the hard edge to the soft edge would not work in Photoshop. Procreate excels at line-based brushes, so it's no mystery that comic artista love it. It is also useful for the contour control needed for modern/art deco styles and calligraphy. 

Above are the brush settings for Procreate and wow-eee are there a bunch of toggles. The number of brush features on the left side seems to be about the same as Photoshop, but within each feature, there are a greater number of settings. Finding a pre-made brush you like and messing around with the settings a little is more approachable than building a brush from scratch.

A painting study in Procreate using Jingsketch's Edge Control brush.

Here is the second attempt with the Edge Control brush to see if I could make a more polished illustration with it. The plane-defining nature of the brush called for a graphic approach and informed the direction of the composition. The shading style for this elk gave some freedom to exaggerate shapes while also being systematic in a way that feels natural for how I like to build shadows and highlights. 

In conclusion, Procreate and Photoshop have the same basic structure, but have unique strengths depending on the use. For my purposes, Procreate is amazing for sketching and encourages me to experiment more. I can't sit in bed or at a cafe with my massive iMac and do photoshop sketches, but I can take the iPad anywhere and fill my time with drawing when I might otherwise melt my brain with social media. While Photoshop is also available for iPad, the interface for Procreate is well-suited for a small device. Photoshop has better tools for the complex illustrations I make for my book covers and posters, such as vector shapes, photo-editing tools, and typography options. I went in thinking I could recreate my same Photoshop techniques in Procreate and came out with a completely different approach for illustrating!

As a side-note and public service announcement, another tool has become available for protecting artists and their copyrighted images against AI plagiarism. It is called Nightshade, which is made by the same team that made Glaze. Nightshade deters the unethical scraping of copyrighted images by making very small changes to the pixels of your images. AI training models will go on to ascribe the wrong description to the “Nightshaded” images because of those changed pixels, weakening the model. Hopefully, this will help AI developers understand the importance of training on copyrighted data through consent.

Crafting a Steampunk World

Etsy Cyber Week Sales

First things first: prepare yourself for holiday sales. Etsy has unique, hand-made trinkets for the holidays and great deals during "Cyber Week" following Thanksgiving. I will have a 20% off sale on my Etsy store and a few new goodies to check out! Use the Code "cyber2022" during November 18-30. You might want to visit my store before then because I do have new physical greeting cards-- one featuring my Thanksgiving Fox and Goose just in time for turkey day.

Crafting A Steampunk World

Alternate history is a curious sub-genre of sci-fi and is perhaps most well-known in popular culture through stories of zombie apocalypse, dystopia, and...steampunk! This is one of my favorites to illustrate because of the fantastical over-the-top nature of it with flying ships and flamboyant victorian garb.

Cover illustration for book 1 of The Duchess.

This particular middle grade novel I illustrated for encapsulates all of the typical steampunk motifs, so you better bet there will be some goggles and dirigibles. It was also important to capture the bond between the two sister characters, as illustrated in the prelim sketches below.

The author, Jeremiah Brennan, liked the third sketch most for the cover, which makes perfect sense. It best captures a scene from the narrative and the circular visual flow portrays the chaos of this steampunk port. In a stroke of good fortune, Brennan was also pleased enough with the second sketch to commission a full interior illustration based on it.

Above are the three options for the cover text. Fortunately for us, the Victorian era has a very defined design aesthetic, which also happens to be popular, meaning there are plentiful resources for looking up Victorian signage and learning what fonts to use. Because so much of this story occurs on air ships, I also tried to bring in traditionally nautical elements (the flag in the first sketch's title, the scroll in the third sketch's title, swoopy bold script fonts).

With a relatively complex cover, I gather reference like a squirrel stashing winter acorns. The above left image is my composite reference for the interior illustration and the above right image is for the cover. I am using Blender as my 3D software as per usual with most of the models coming from Sketchfab. When I render a scene in blender, I will usually isolate different sections (foreground, middle ground, background). Not only is this helpful for tweaking elements when making a composition, but it also renders the 3D image in Blender much faster.

Pro-tip for scenes with crowds: check out 3D scans of statues. Statues are wonderfully expressive, so you are less likely to need pose the 3D scans and go through the rigmarole of rigging. Let’s just call it rig-marole, shall we?

The finished black and white interior illustration with the Duchess piercing the clouds.

There is more to the adventure yet! Brennans commissioned chapter artwork for The Duchess as well. This gave me the opportunity to further develop my “interior” drawing style, which utilizes contour lines inspired by the likes of Charles Dana Gibson and Franklin Booth. I am excited to develop more artwork like this, which feels true to the way I draw in my sketchbooks. If I am drawing more like how I sketch, the result is a more cohesive voice to the artwork.

Brennans went all in with a separate design for hardcover. We tried a vintage, graphical approach, which is perfect for this genre. I sent another three concepts.

Here is the ship I used to render the interior illustration and hardcover. It’s a mishmash of an existing model and some of my editions. It’s not perfect, but it does the job. Small elements like the ship rigging I can draw without a precise model, so I’m not worried about the model on a detail level.

The finished design is elegant and textural for a collectible appeal. Physical book sales are a different animal with the rise of ebooks. People are looking at books for decoration first and reading second. Just take a look at Barnes & Noble collectible editions with effects like embossing and foil stamping. This attempts the same feel of a collectible edition with a faux finish.